I am not entirely sold on Ryobi power tools – I own a relatively new Ryobi edge trimmer, which is a complete abortion. However, I also own one of the HG-910 4 ½” Ryobi angle grinders. This product has proven to be reliable and very easy to use. The size and weight combination lends itself to one hand operation, which suits my requirements – I use it a lot on smallish recycled aluminium projects.
One tends to think that angle grinders are only good for grinding metal. But cutting tile, mortar, and pavers becomes an easy task when using a diamond wheel. Wire brush attachments make quick work of rust and loose paint removal.
The ability to handle different wheels and accessories is what makes angle grinders so versatile. Your angle grinder typically includes a spindle washer and a spindle nut that take care of the various accessories.
What is an Angle Grinder?
An angle grinder is essentially a heavy-duty piece of spinning sandpaper that is powerful enough to cut through steel, concrete and many other hard surfaces. The grinder is powered by an electric, compressed air or gasoline-powered motor. It drives a high-powered right angle geared head that holds an abrasive disc. The disc is changeable and can be made of various materials depending on the application. Although the angle grinder has a detachable side handle, which requires both hands to operate, the smaller units can be operated with one hand.
Discs
Discs come in many different materials, grits and degrees of hardness and each one is suited to a particular application. Some of them require lubrication with water for safe use. There are abrasive grinding discs, sanding discs, wire brush wheels, polishing pads and diamond blade cut off discs. Diamond discs are typically used for tile, mortar and pavers. Wire brushes are used for taking off flaking paint and rust. Abrasive cutting wheels are used for grinding or cutting steel.
Buying an Angle Grinder?
Elements to consider when purchasing Ryobi angle grinders would include the size of the disc (4” to 7”), the power source and the power output from the motor. For the home user, the 4 ½” is generally the best choice.
Usage Tip:
Use your grinder on small jobs first to get a feel for it. Use the proper safety equipment. Angle grinders can be really dangerous if not used properly and without the necessary safety precautions. Wheels can shred during operation or they could bind and cause the tool to jerk violently. It is advisable to wear good quality gloves, safety goggles and proper shoes while operating your grinder.
Feel free to leave a comment on your experiences with angle grinders.
A Look at the Various Electric Sanders and their use
The different types of electric sanders can become confusing, which makes it difficult to decide which one would be most suitable for your particular application? In the video, below, we have an in depth look at the different types of portable sanders, as well as usage and safety guidelines.
Just to recap for those of you who are not so keen on videos. The video covers most of the following items:
Belt Sander
A heavy-duty sander for rough applications. It has a continuous rotating belt that is driven by two rollers.
Disk Sander (not covered)
Mostly used for metal applications such as in auto body repair shops (angle grinder/sander). Also comes in bench-mounted configurations.
Pad/Palm Sander
Comes in two varieties: Orbital sander
Has a rectangular shaped pad, which comes in different sizes. Random orbit sander
Has a circular shaped rotating pad with dust extraction holes that need to be lined up with the holes in the sandpaper. Some models now have the holes in a recessed circle, which makes lining up unnecessary.
Detail Sander
Generally the pad is of triangular shape to allow access to awkward spots.
File/Finger Sander (not covered)
A very narrow belt sander for tight spaces. In most cases you can probably make do with a hand-block, which can be made from just about any object (avoid metal) depending on the application and the shape required. For example, it can be a matchstick or a toothbrush handle.
Sandpaper
Grit ranges vary from 36 (course) to 600 (fine) – average use is between 100 and 220
Buying cheap power tools does not necessarily mean that one has to sacrifice durability. Firstly, one needs to get familiar with just some of the more popular brand names globally available, such as (listed in alphabetical order):
Black & Decker
Bosch
Craftsman
Delta
Dewalt
Fein
Hitachi
Makita
Milwaukee
Panasonic
Ridgid
Rockwell
Skil
Each brand covers a variety of power tools. Prices vary significantly from brand to brand and do not necessarily reflect quality, reliability and backup service.
Comparisons
Comparing prices against specifications across the different brand names can be time consuming and frustrating, especially if you’re considering visiting all the suppliers in your neighbourhood. There are a number of websites that do extensive brand pricing comparisons. However, you will find that often the information is dated and availability is highly regionalised.
Places to find products
If time is not a factor, there are various places to look for cheap power tools such as:
Local “garage sales”
Refurbishing shops
Classified ads for 2nd hand products
Your local pawnshops
Popular websites (as mentioned above)
New or Used?
If you are in the market for cheap power tools, you could potentially save yourself a lot of money and aggravation by investigating what’s available at Amazon.com. Here you have a choice between new and used products and it is possible to save up to 50% on any particular product. It’s worth giving a try!
The title of this blog implies that it offers power tools for sale. That is absolutely true and I earn commission on sales via this site. However, selling is not the primary objective of this blog. As a power tools enthusiast you may have noticed that there is very little out there on the web in terms of sharing of information amongst the power tools fraternity.
Most power tool related blogs and forums are poorly visited and most of the comments, if any, are spammy. Apart from the information that I offer through my research and experience, I would like to see your input in terms of your experiences. The information presented here is largely aimed at the DIY enthusiast.
With sufficient input and sharing of tips and ideas, I am sure we can create an environment that can become the first choice when it comes to finding solutions for specific project challenges.
This blog does not live in isolation as I make it my business to visit and explore as many relevant sites as possible. That means that, ultimately, you could save yourself a lot of navigation, as a lot of information would be summarized on this site. Any “borrowed” information would be recognized appropriately.
In order to add momentum to this blog, please leave your comment below. Only through your participation can this blog become a source of valuable information.
When we refer to Black and Decker tools, we actually refer to tools manufactured by the company formally known as Black & Decker. The corporation, Black & Decker, was founded by Duncan Black and Alonzo Decker in 1910 while the Black & Decker trademark was only obtained in 1949. They invented the first hand-held portable electric drill as far back as 1917.
Still to this day Black & Decker is a highly respected corporation and they have acquired some additional well-known brands such as DeWalt. They operate in more than a hundred countries while in some parts of the world, the brand is marketed by independent companies. Their strongest presence is in the USA, the UK and Europe.
Sadly, due to the downturn in the world economy, Black & Decker has recently entered into merger talks with rival Stanley Works, which will result in Stanley holding the controlling share.
Quality
Given Stanley’s reputation and credibility, we trust that the merger will not have a negative impact on the quality of the Black and Decker tools, as we know them.
I can speak from experience, as I own a lightweight Black & Decker drill that I bought about 25 years ago. After lots of abuse, using oversized metal and masonry drill bits over the years, it is still in perfect working condition – although strictly reserved for lighter work these days.
Ownership
If you own any Black and Decker tools, feel free to share your experiences, good or bad, by posting a comment below.
If you’re here because you’re in the market to purchase a power tool, you may be well advised to have a look at these Black and Decker toolsavailable from Amazon.com where you have the option to consider either new or used products.
If you’re here simply to find or share information, please feel free to leave a comment.
Robert Bosch, at the age of 25, founded the “Werkstätte für Feinmechanik und Elektrotechnik” (Workshop for Precision Mechanics and Electrical Engineering) in Stuttgart in November 1886. The workshop evolved into what later became known as Robert Bosch GmbH.
One of the new business fields explored by Bosch was power tools. In 1928, the Bosch subsidiary, Eisemann, started marketing a hair-cutting device called Forfex that had a tiny electric motor located in its handle. This device was the forerunner of all the compact electric Bosch drills and screwdrivers that we know today. Bosch engineers soon realized that they could employ the same basic design to create hand-held power tools that were desperately needed for the manufacture of diesel injection pumps at the time. The first of these tools were ready by 1930 and proved to be so successful that Bosch decided to launch the design onto the market in 1932 as the “hand-held motor”.
At the same time, Bosch engineers were working on the development of heavy-duty power tools for use on construction sites. As a result of their effort, the Bosch hammer drill, was launched at almost the same time as the smaller power tools and was marketed as a replacement for the construction tools used for manual chiseling and drilling work. Initially, Bosch aimed these tools strictly at the professional market, but during the 1950’s the company realized that there was an opportunity to develop tools for use in the home.
With strong brands such as Bosch, Hawera, Skil, Dremel and RotoZip, Bosch today manufactures power tools for the building trade as well as for the DIY (do-it-yourself) fraternity. The product range also includes accessories such as drill bits and saw blades, which are marketed under the Vermont American brand. Gardening appliances are marketed under the Gilmour brand.
Although, today, a significant portion of the manufacturing process has been outsourced to China to take advantage of the cheaper labour, I believe that one can still rest assure that the quality of the Bosch drillsis controlled by Germany.
Quick Tip:
When operating a corded drill, use a length of thin gauge wire to attach the chuck key to the cord, about a metre away from the drill. Just gently tightening it with a pair of pliers so it does not slide down the cord, will ensure that it is always within reach.
Metabo would like to believe that they manufacture electric power tools that stand up to the demands of the modern professional who wants to rest assure that they can rely on their equipment for an extended period of time. The high standards imposed on the design and manufacturing of the Metabo power tools has ensured that the name is respected and well known throughout the world, in more than 100 countries. Backed up by its own sales subsidiaries and service centres, Metabo works in close partnership with the relative specialist retail trade.
Brand Names
Metabo operates under two brand names Metabo and Lurem.
Metabo’s one division manufactures hand-held electric tools, grinding disks and chucks whilst another division manufactures stationary and semi-stationary woodworking machines, welding and cutting devices and Compressors.
Lurem manufactures semi-stationary and stationary woodworking machines
History
In 1924, Albrecht Schnizler and his business partner Julius Closs co-founded Schnizler GmbH. Their objective was to manufacture tools that would better meet the higher demands of an increasingly engineering oriented world than the tools that existed at that time. Walter Rauch, a prominent salesman, joined them in 1927. Their commitment is illustrated by the fact that the descendants of the three founders are still Metabo Group shareholders today.
In 1929, the company was transformed into Metabowerke GmbH. The name Metabo derives from the term “Metallbohrdreher” (metal turning drills) used in Germany for hand drills at the time.
During this time, an increasing number of work pieces were made of metal, resulting in a requirement for more robust tools to work them. British industrial workers, who performed extensive steel works, placed particularly high demands on their tools. As Metabo’s machines were able to meet the standards required, their export volume (mainly to Great Britain) generated 80% of the company’s total revenues by 1930.
Metabo suffered a setback in 1945 when a fire destroyed almost 75% of the manufacturing facility. However, the company kept growing and by 1960, was employing more than 1,000 people.
In 1969, the company moved to its new site from where it still operates today.
In 1999, Metabo Group acquired the Meppen based company, Elektra Beckum that manufactured a product range, which complemented the Metabo range perfectly.
Today, Metabo operates 25 global sales companies ensuring the group’s market presence in more than 120 countries. Metabo employs more than 2,300 people globally, and has manufacturing operations at Nürtingen, Meppen, Domfront and Shanghai.
Conclusion
I think it is fairly safe to say that the Metabo power tools compare favorably with the offerings from other manufacturers. In the end, it probably boils down to personal choice and brand loyalty.
A range of Metabo tools is available from Amazon.com and many of these have been reviewed by actual buyers, which can be of great help in making up your mind about purchasing a particular product.
Not many amateur woodworkers appreciate the dangers of being exposed to woodworking dust. However, many of us would like to solve the dust problem simply by connecting power tools to a vacuum cleaner. Before doing so, there are some basic issues to consider. To start off with, there are three main types of vacuum cleaners available – domestic, commercial and industrial.
Domestic
Generally the motor drives a small fan (1-2kW) at high speed, and the filtration system consists of a single disposable paper bag and secondary fine polymer mesh filter in the event of the paper bag leaking or tearing. Alternative designs offer units that are fitted with a cyclone to deposit the majority of the dust into a transparent receptacle, followed by one or more disposable or re-useable filters.
Commercial
They typically consist of a robust vertical cylindrical metal or plastic container (or drum) fitted with an integral motor driving a fan and runs on wheels or castors. A long suction hose is provided together with several interchangeable tools for various cleaning applications. The filter usually consists of a disposable paper bag or a re-useable cloth bag to contain the dust, within a secondary cartridge filter, which acts as backup in the event of a burst filter. The filtered air flows over the motor before it discharges into the atmosphere. This type of unit is generally used in offices, laboratories and small businesses as well as for more demanding domestic applications.
Industrial
Typically consists of a large metal dust container fitted with a dust collection bag, and a separate adjacent fan unit, with the fan belt-driven by a separate three-phase induction motor. The motor and starter may be suitable for use in a hazardous area. The unit is usually quite heavy and is mounted on a wheeled trolley, and uses a large, 50mm diameter hose connected to the suction. The filtration is usually a cyclone with a dust-containing bag, followed by a disposable paper filter and possibly another filter if toxic materials are to be trapped.
Selecting a vacuum cleaner
The best choice of vacuum cleaner is one where the motor and electrical equipment are not in the path of the air drawn through the vacuum cleaner (this is usually only found on larger industrial vacuum cleaners with three-phase induction motors).
Where a small commercial vacuum cleaner is to be used, then one with at least two filters and preferably three filters in series should be used.
Do not use domestic vacuum cleaners, as they are unlikely to be robust enough to stand up to the cleaning demands of commercial premises.
Attachments and hoses
Be careful with metal attachments.
If metallic attachments are to be used, ensure that they are earthed.
Avoid the use of wire-reinforced hoses. Should a wire-reinforced hose be used, make sure that the wire is earthed and is on the inside surface of the hose.
Dust bags, filters and cleaning
Empty the dust collecting bag or container frequently to avoid overloading the vacuum cleaner.
Change any disposable filters regularly. It is best to replace these at fixed intervals rather than rely on the discretion of the operator, as often they will not change the filter until it has burst or the vacuum cleaner fails to function properly.
Periodically open the vacuum cleaner to inspect the motor for deposits of dust, and thoroughly clean the motor. Only qualified persons should undertake such dismantling, cleaning and reassembly.
The Ideal Solution
Purifying of the air in a workshop can be achieved through either venting the cyclone outlet outside or filtering and re-circulating the air inside. Venting outside eliminates fine dust from re-entering your workshop environment. No filter can achieve the same level of purification. Venting outside is less expensive to install, as no filtration costs apply.
The best argument in favour of re-circulating is that with venting, the discharged air has to be replaced with outside air. If your workshop is heated and especially if it is air-conditioned, then bringing the outside air to room temperature consumes a considerable amount of energy. Venting outside can be noisy and consideration should be given to near by neighbours. Also, venting outside without sufficient replacement air can be very dangerous if you have gas-fired appliances such as a water heater or a furnace in your workshop. Sufficient outside air must be allowed to flow freely into the workshop, or the flue gasses will be drawn into the air. The by-products of this combustion process contain CO (carbon monoxide), which can be fatal.
Summary
A dust collection system and an air cleaner serve two distinctly different purposes. The dust collector is designed to catch the dust at its source, filter it out of the air stream, and either filter and re-circulate the cleaned air inside or dischargeit outside. An air cleaner is designed to keep the entire volume of air in the shop moving, whilst filtering it at the same time. The air cleaner will not function as a dust collector, nor will the dust collector act as an air cleaner. So, in reality you need both of them. Capturing as much of the dust at its source as possible removes most of the airborne contamination. The air cleaner finishes off the job. If you have budgetary constraints, invest in a good dust collector first.
Should you be looking to purchasing a product to solve a dust problem in your workshop, I would suggest that you visit Amazon.com where you can browse through a number of woodworking dust collectors and attachments on offer.
Of all the power tools available today, the drill has to be the most popular by far. For that very reason it is only appropriate that we should have a look at the maintenance of the items that the drill cannot operate without – the drill bits. Maintaining your set of drill bits is not a thought that is constantly on the mind of the average handyman. However, reduced performance of a drill bit can be both frustrating to the operator and harmful to the drill. This is where drill bit sharpeners can play an important roll.
Tip: It is important to store your drill bits in their individual storage spaces and not lumped together in a bundle, as the friction will quickly dull the edges.
Manual
For many years, I have been sharpening drill bits manually with a fair degree of success. I roughly work on a 30-degree angle from the horizontal and the important part is that the “shoulders” have to end up in line whilst they slant back in a rounded fashion. Obviously, the thinner the drill bit, the more delicate the sharpening process becomes. Having a close look at the biggest drill bit in your set will make it easier to get a feel for the angles and shapes required. This process can be enhanced significantly by utilizing a drill bit sharpener jig.
Automated
There is a variety of electric drill bit sharpeners available today to choose from. Naturally, these offer a much quicker and easier solution than the manual approach. The big advantage is that they offer a perfect finish, which is as good as new, if not better. They are a sound investment and, if carefully maintained, will last for a very long time.
As an example of the usage and maintenance of an electric power unit, I have inserted a short video demonstration below of the DD350X model from Drill Doctor.
Should you be interested in pricing details and some owner reviews of a variety of drill bit sharpeners, including the one you have just viewed, you may want to take a look at what Amazon.com has to offer.
Please feel free to leave a comment below before you go.
Before we look at the electric planers (or hand power planers), let’s have a look at the various manual types that have largely been rendered redundant with the advent of the power planers.
Hand planers can be finicky and temperamental. As we know, it is not always easy to set them up perfectly – especially when working on wider surfaces. Blades can easily be sharpened on an oil stone but getting the bevel angle right, takes some getting used to.
Although electric planers are very effective and have replaced most of the requirements for the hand types, there is always a place for a medium size hand planer in any workshop
Although most hand planers are categorized as either bench planes or block planes, the various types of planes are as follows:
Block Planer – A block plane is used for smoothing and flattening timber, especially pieces of wood that are uneven and curly. The blade is at a fairly shallow angle and it features an upward bevel. With its low blade angle, block planes are designed to shear off end grain, making them very useful for trimming and fitting
Bench Planer – For larger projects, a bench or finishing planer is needed. Bench planes are similar to block planes and used for smoothing or flattening timber. The blade is fitted at a steeper angle and it features a downward bevel.
Pocket Planer – A pocket plane is used for one-handed speed cutting and trimming. It is small enough to fit in your pocket or toolbox. The blade can be adjusted or replaced simply with the turn of a knob.
Spoke Planer – A spoke plane (or shave) is used for shaping edges and cutting rounded shapes in timber. They are useful for shaping chair legs and seats or curved templates. Cutters are replaceable and are usually adjustable for depth of cut and shaving thickness.
Trimming Planer – Slightly larger than a pocket plane, the trimming plane is great for detail planing as well as for the smoothing and flattening of smaller pieces of timber.
Hand Power Planer – These are great for adjustment of door edges and trimming of flat areas such as floors, decks and tabletops. They are sometimes referred to as edge or door planers.
Like a hand plane, the power planer rides on a shoe. The planer has blades mounted on a cutter head, or drum, that spins at up to 20,000 rpm, removing a layer of wood equal to the difference in elevation between the front and rear shoes. The front hand grip doubles as a depth-adjustment gauge. The gauge, with its built-in scale settings, turns back and forth to move the front planer shoe up or down, setting the depth of the cut.
Cordless Hand Power Planer – There are now even 14 Volt and 18 Volt cordless versions available, which makes them extremely handy for off site applications
Bench(top) planer – The bench (or benchtop) planer comes in two varieties. The thickness planer is used for smoothing rough timber or reducing the thickness of a board while the jointer is used for straightening the edges of a board.
Combination Planer – This is a combination of a jointer and a planer, which is very handy for home use as it provides two functions on a single footprint.
Surface Planer – The surface planer, which is pushed (like a lawnmower), is more of an industrial tool and is certainly not your average home tool. These are used for very large areas (floors and decks) that require more than what a belt sander can offer.
Operation
Two blades spinning on a drum form the basis of a power planer. Using the depth adjustment knob, controls the bite of the blades by raising or lowering the adjustable front plate (or shoe).
Best results are achieved through mastering a balance between holding and pushing the planer. Proper balancing of the body will enhance the results. Following are some tips on using the tool:
Start off by resting the front shoe of the planer flat on the wood without the blade touching the work.
Start the tool, allowing the motor to reach full speed. Now ease the plane into contact with the work and gently push it forward.
Keep your initial pressure on the front grip as the planer engages the work.
Balance hand pressure between the tool handle and front knob as both planer soles contact the work.
As you push the tool through the end of the work, transfer control to the rear handle. Avoid overreaching at the end of the pass as the front shoe will drop off the work and allow the blades to take uneven chunks out of the end of the work. This is known as sniping.
Some power planers have two full sized blades that can be sharpened using a whetstone.
Most planers use two double-edged disposable carbide mini blades. Many planers come with plastic “gauge bases” that ensure correct positioning of both the mini blades and the set plate for mounting on the drum.
Some tips on blade replacement:
Unplug the power lead before you change blades or make any repairs and adjustments to the tool.
Change blades before they get to the stage that they create smoke or fine powder during operation, as this can harm the motor.
Always sharpen, or replace, both blades at the same time. This maintains the cutter head balance and ensures quality cuts.
Double check mounting bolts for tightness before running the planer. Blades not mounted squarely on the cutter head will cause the tool to vibrate.
Most power planers are designed to utilise a 3.25 inch blade although some utilise blades 6.125 inches or wider. Planer prices vary according to blade width, quality of construction, power output and accessories. Reasonably priced light-duty models will handle 90 percent of average tasks. More rugged planers have more accurate and easy-to-use depth gauges. These include more standard accessories but they cost considerably more.
When buying a power planer, consider the following accessories:
Cast metal sole plates, which warp less than stamped metal plates.
A power cord, at least 2 metres in length, to allow a smooth pass with the tool.
Adjustable fences that allow you to work accurately on door edges and boards.
Chip deflectors, which direct waste instead of spreading it.
Safety Tips
As with all power tools, protect your eyes and hearing by wearing appropriate safety gear.
When turning the tool off, protect yourself, the work and the blades by placing the front shoe of the planer on a wooden block until the spinning cutter head stops.
Should you be looking for pricing details and owner reviews of various electric planers, I would strongly recommend that you have a look at Amazon.com where you also have the option to consider refurbished tools.
If you’re just browsing, feel free to leave a comment, ask a question or share your experience.
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